«The hospitality in this country is as warm as the weather.»
Azeem in «Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves»
I wanted to do a trip to Japan, starting in Tokyo, then going to Mt. Fuji, back to Tokyo, then Kyoto, and finally back to Tokyo. As Japan has some interesting accommodation options — capsule hotels, Ryokans, and old-style buildings — so I decided to try out a few. This way the five different hotels/B&B/hostels are a feature, not an annoyance.
I tried out three different capsule hotels (all in Tokyo), something akin to a bed and breakfast in a typical old-school Japanese house (okay, without breakfast), and a kind of Ryokan (in a more modern hotel form).
They were different solutions that all had interesting solutions for staying a night or more somewhere.
Capsule Hotels
Capsule Hotels are a kind of hostel, only that instead of bunk beds each guest has a capsule to sleep in. A bit like a float tank with one side open. The forms differ, but the end result is a self-contained unit consisting mostly of a bed, with a shelf, controls for light/AC, and a curtain. Some also have a TV. You cannot lock them, but there is usually a locker you can use or some other way to secure you luggage.
If all you need is a place to sleep, shower, and use the toilet, capsule hotels are great. Some have a lounge where you can work or read.
Main disadvantages are the lack of privacy. They are also unsuited for pairs, as they are sex-segregated. Then again, Tokyo does have cheap and beautiful «Love Hotels», in which you can rent a room for a few hours for a low price.
I would also strongly recommend getting Ohropax. No matter the capsule hotel, there were people who were snoring loudly. Depending on the distance, even Oropax have their limits. In the Nine Hours Akasaka capsule hotel, the person in the next capsule was snoring loudly and I strongly suspect the capsule design amplified the sound. I had to wear Ohropax and headphones to sleep.
As for safety, I never once felt unsafe in Japan. Yes, crime happens there as well, but overall it’s a very safe high-trust society, mainly due to their unity/lack of «multiculturalism». And sleeping behind a curtain is no different than staying in a youth hostel. Then again, I did put my valuables in my side-bag and kept it next to my pillow. So, yeah, that was no issue.
Looking a bit closer at the three capsule hotels …
Capsule Hotel: Nine Hours Akasaka
This capsule hotels has lockers and showers in the basement, and relatively simple capsules. Even the shelves are relatively small and IIRC there is no TV (never used it, so did not pay much attention to it).
They use a QR code for the locker (IIRC a photo of it works when displayed on a smartphone screen if you forget your card).
You also have to leave the hotel during the day and there is no real lounge, just an air conditioned area at the entrance with some chairs. You can go there but it does not really invite to spend time there.
On the plus side, they offer sleep reports, using a camera, microphone and some other stuff to monitor your sleep during the night.
It’s all relatively anonymous but okay.
Overall, it was fine to stay there for a few nights to explore Tokyo.
Capsule Hotel: MyCube
Strange name for a capsule hotel, but a step up from the Nine Hours. They have much nicer capsules with more space and a locker below it.
They also do not ask you to leave during the day.
Hey also have a really nice lounge with a Manga library tht includes English versions (usually placed behind the Japanese originals).
The lounge was so inviting that I spend an evening there just reading a few mangas. You can also eat there — and there are enough options available nearby to get take-out food.
They also have a small laundry which was very useful. While there are a lot of laundromats in Tokyo, it’s nice to be able to wash the clothes in the evening and go to the lounge while it’s washing/drying.
However, it could have been a bit cleaner. I mean, mold? Not something I expect in a Japanese hotel.
But yeah, overall, very nice capsule hotel. Loved both the Manga library with English translations and the capsule with a locker beneath it.
Capsule Hotel: First Cabin
The final capsule hotel was First Cabin, a bit closer to MyCube than to Nine Hours. It has similarly spacious and modern capsules, but no storage beneath it. Instead, it has a smaller storage within the capsule.
The stroage was too small even for my backpack, which is below the airplane carry-one requirements. Apparently, the expectation is that guests travel with hard-shell luggage that can be locked, so you can use the bike-lock they provide you with to attach it to some metal bar in a storage area. Only that’s completely unusable for people traveling with backpacks.
They also have a workable lounge (more a cafeteria, not the comfy chairs of MyCube) and a Manga library, but as far as I could see, only Japanese originals:
On the plus side, they also do not ask you to leave during the day and they have some interesting options («All you can drink alcohol», which is completely useless to me).
The main advantage — besides a more modern and clean laundry — is a small onsen on the ground floor («first floor» in Japan). Small but very, very welcome.
(No photos of it, sorry.)
As a minor detail, I’ve got to hand it to them, their selection of photos on the walls is well done.
Overall, while not as welcoming as MyCube, the onsen was very very nice. Getting up, doing a Japanese shower and then spending fifteen minutes or so in 40°C water — not the worst start into the day. And not the worst way to end it.
Bed & Breakfast (Fujiyoshinda)
Options in Fuji-yoshida were a bit limited, but one accommodation on bookings.com was a kinda bed and breakfast. Kinda because there was no breakfast. Instead, there was the opportunity to stay in a somewhat traditional Japanese house. The house itself was not easy to find, given that this seems to be the entrance:
Normally no fan of bed and breakfast, I like more anonymous accommodations. But the ones who run it were very nice, even though language was a barrier (Google Translate helped).
Besides the hospitality there was an interesting room with a toilet and a sink.
However, shower were limited (only during the evening). Normally a showstopper, but there is a great onsen nearby (Fujiyama Onsen). The prices are reasonable (esp. in the morning), and starting the day with a walk to the onsen and a long soak in 40°C water — better than any shower. Same in the evening. Also, there is no AC, but a ventilator did help a bit.
Overall, even though this really isn’t my favorite kind of accommodation, it was an interesting and nice stay.
Matsumoto Ryokan
I also wanted to say in a Ryokan, a traditional Japanese hotel. I tried one out in Kyoto. It’s a hotel that goes over several floors, but manages to convey the illusion that you are in a traditional Japanese house.
The floor is covered with tatami mats (incl. a futon bed) and the windows are hidden behind Japanese blinds. Actually a great idea, gives the whole room a cozy safe and secure feeling.
Sitting on the floor looking at the Japanese walls/blinds — gives you the impression of being on the ground floor of a Japanese house, not on the fifth (or fourth) floor of a hotel next to the main train station.
The illusion only breaks in the bathroom (too much plastic) and when you hear the bings of the train station (which is a bit annoying but outside of their control).
Besides the central location, this Ryokan had two great advantages: Japanese breakfast and an Onsen.
The breakfast was served in the breakfast room by a young Japanese woman. And that very very well.
The onsen is in the basement, two for men and two for women. Apparently the switch it around a bit.
Really nice to start the day with it, before a very good breakfast, and then relax there again in the evening. Combined with the very friendly service — a really nice stay.
Conclusion
Overall, my impression of the different kinds of accommodations are very positive. Both the Manga library of MyCube and the Onsens (First Cabin and Matsumoto Ryokan) were highlights. If I were to do the trip again, I would probably favor MyCube and the Matsumoto Ryokan.
And no matter the accommodation, there were some interesting ideas. I really liked sitting/sleeping on the floor (well, I already sleep on a tatami mat). The idea of hiding the windows behind Japanese blinds is great — esp. if your view is not great. The onsens were wonderful. It might also be interesting to copy some of the Nine Hour capsule hotels measure to track sleep (if connected with analysis and suggestions for better sleep).
So, yeah, very relaxing and inspirational.